Products made of natural silk are indispensable for their hygienic properties and will
always be in great demand. To obtain an even and intense coloration on a textile material, it is necessary
to ensure its effective preparation with the most complete removal of hydrophobic contaminants (both
natural and silicone oils applied during the weaving process, lubricants, etc.), which hinder the dyeing
of the substrate and reduce the color characteristics of the obtained colors. Therefore, the issue of
preparing natural silk for dyeing is relevant. In view of the sensitivity of the main fiber-forming
component of natural silk - fibroin to the effects of chemical reagents, finishing operations (in
particular, degluing) should be carried out under gentle conditions, which, nevertheless, provide
maximum cleaning from related substances without violating the integrity of the fiber. Known methods
of decoction (soap-soda and with the use of surfactants) are carried out under conditions that destroy
silk fiber. Therefore, the most promising method of degluing is the use of biological catalysts - enzymes,
which are distinguished by a selective, directional action. Enzyme technologies are one of the
alternatives to traditional processes for the preparation and finishing of silk textile materials, the use
of which helps to solve such important problems as creating a cleaner, softer, more environmentally
friendly chemical production. Therefore, the aim of this study was to create a new degluing technology
based on enzymes, which allows minimizing fiber damage while increasing the efficiency of finishing
operations. In this work, a neutral-acting enzyme was chosen by the selection method based on a
combination of criteria, removing the required amount of sericin silk glue, while maintaining the
structure of fibroin, and a mode of degluing with the selected enzyme Protosubtilin G3x was proposed.
In the course of the work, the influence of the enzymatic method of decoction on the dyeability of silk
was studied using the example of active dyes in comparison with traditional degluing methods.
Products made of natural silk are indispensable for their hygienic properties and will
always be in great demand. To obtain an even and intense coloration on a textile material, it is necessary
to ensure its effective preparation with the most complete removal of hydrophobic contaminants (both
natural and silicone oils applied during the weaving process, lubricants, etc.), which hinder the dyeing
of the substrate and reduce the color characteristics of the obtained colors. Therefore, the issue of
preparing natural silk for dyeing is relevant. In view of the sensitivity of the main fiber-forming
component of natural silk - fibroin to the effects of chemical reagents, finishing operations (in
particular, degluing) should be carried out under gentle conditions, which, nevertheless, provide
maximum cleaning from related substances without violating the integrity of the fiber. Known methods
of decoction (soap-soda and with the use of surfactants) are carried out under conditions that destroy
silk fiber. Therefore, the most promising method of degluing is the use of biological catalysts - enzymes,
which are distinguished by a selective, directional action. Enzyme technologies are one of the
alternatives to traditional processes for the preparation and finishing of silk textile materials, the use
of which helps to solve such important problems as creating a cleaner, softer, more environmentally
friendly chemical production. Therefore, the aim of this study was to create a new degluing technology
based on enzymes, which allows minimizing fiber damage while increasing the efficiency of finishing
operations. In this work, a neutral-acting enzyme was chosen by the selection method based on a
combination of criteria, removing the required amount of sericin silk glue, while maintaining the
structure of fibroin, and a mode of degluing with the selected enzyme Protosubtilin G3x was proposed.
In the course of the work, the influence of the enzymatic method of decoction on the dyeability of silk
was studied using the example of active dyes in comparison with traditional degluing methods.
| № | Author name | position | Name of organisation |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Khamidova V.D. | PhD, | Tashkent Institute of Textile and Light Industry, Tashkent city, Republic of Uzbekistan |
| № | Name of reference |
|---|---|
| 1 | 1. Krichevsky G.E. Chemical technology of textile materials. In 3 volumes - M.: RZITLP, 2001. -S.432 2. Alimova. Kh.A., Burnashev R.Z. Theoretical aspects and practical recommendations for stapling and shredding natural silk waste. 1994 3. Efficient separation of sericin and fibroin from Bombyx mori silkworm fibers and inexpensive removal of salt from fibroin solution. Correa, E.E., Lopera, D.O.G., Restrepo, S.G., Ossa-Orozco, C.P. Revista Facultad de Ingenieria. (94), с. 97-10, 2020. 4. Chemical degumming of silk fibers. Guangting, Zhang Yuan-ming. J. Qingdao Univ. Eng. Technol.Ed. 2005. 20, № 1, с. 57-60 5. Grebetova R.N., Shvartsman V.I. The use of proteolytic enzyme preparations in the process of processing waste from cocoon-winding production into silk fiber.//Microbi-ol.prom-st. Scientific and technical ref. -1976. issue 4. pp.26-28. 6. Gupta S. Enzym applications in chemical processing of textiles //19-th IFATCC Congress – Paris/ 2002. P.309. |
| 2 | 7. Orasavara S. Hydrolysis of sericin by protease //Res. Repts. Fac. Text. and Sericult Univ. -1980.-М 10. - р.232-236. 8. Arai Takayuki, Аfreddi Guiliano, Innocenti Riccardo, Tsukada Masuhiro. Biodegradation of Bombyx Mori silk fibroinfibers and films. J. Аррl. Polym. Sсi. 2004. 91, № 4, с. 2383—2390. 7 ил. Библ. 27. 9. Kim S.Y., Zille A., Murkovic M., Guebitz G., Cavaco-Paulo A. Enzymatic polymerization on the surface of cellulose fibers containing functional groups.Enzyme and Microb. Technol. 2007. 40, № 7, с. 1782—1787. 10. Parvinzadeh Mazeyar. Influence of proteolytic enzymes on wool dyeing with madder. Enzyme and Microb. Technol. 2007 40, № 7, с. 1719—1722. 11. Arai Takayuki, afreddi Guiliano, innocenti Riccardo, Tsukada Masuhiro, Biodegradation of Bombyx Mori silk fibroinfibers and films.. J. Аррl. Polym. Sсi. 2004. 91, № 4, с. 2383--2390. 7 ил. Библ. 27. Англ. |
| 3 | 12. Correa, E.E., Lopera, D.O.G., Restrepo, S.G., Ossa-Orozco, C.P. Effektivnoe otdelenie seritsina i fibroina iz volokon tutovogo shelkopryada Bombyx mori i nedorogoe udalenie soli iz rastvora fibroina. Revista Facultad de Ingenieria. (94), с. 97-10, 2020. 13. Guangting, Zhang Yuan-ming. J. Ximicheskoe degummirovanie volokna shelka.Qingdao Univ. Eng. Technol.Ed. 2005. 20, № 1, с. 57-60. Kit.; rez. angl. 14. Patent. Alekseev E.E., Kovalchuk L.S. Sposob beleniya tekstilnogo materiala iz volokon jivotnogo proisxojdeniya.№-2191858, D06L003/02 Rossiya 2002. 15. Khamidova V. D. The use of biological catalysts in the processes of preparing natural silk for dyeing.O‘zbekiston To‘qimachilik jurnali, ISSN 2010- 6262, №2, 20 |